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Wild Alaska: Up Close With Grizzlies in Homer

“Oh, nice, are you going on a cruise?”

This was the response I got last summer when I told friends that we were going to Alaska on our family vacation.

“No, we’re going to Homer,” I replied. This answer was generally met with blank stares followed by me explaining why we chose this far-flung destination devoid of any fancy buffets and planned shore excursions.

My husband and I and our two teenage sons like active, off-the-beaten-path trips. Homer, Alaska promised up-close bear encounters, hiking, fishing, berry picking, and a touch of Russian history. Located 200 miles south of Anchorage, the town of 6,000 people also had a few good restaurants, a must for our foodie family.

Here’s what we did.

One of the activities that lured us to Homer was the chance to see grizzly bears in the remote wilderness. We signed up for a half-day guided bear-viewing trip with Alaska Bear Adventures. The day we arrived, we headed to their office to check in and get weighed. We would be taking off the next morning in a Cessna bush plane to grizzly territory. It was critical to have accurate weight distributions in these small planes, the guide explained. We also went over the rules: bring lunch, but no tuna sandwiches or snacks with crumbs; don’t wear any clothes worn fishing. Grizzlies have an acute sense of smell and can detect food from 20 miles away in certain circumstances.

The next morning, we had a safety briefing about how to send an emergency distress signal, donned life vests and hip waders, and boarded the four-passenger plane. I hoped my older son paid attention to which buttons to push on the radio, since he was sitting next to the pilot. Our destination was Lake Clark National Park, one of the world’s most renowned bear-viewing locations. The only way to get to this remote glacier-fed lake is by plane or boat.

The clouds parted as we approached the lake, and our pilot (who was also our naturalist guide) circled a few times before landing on the beach. Small black dots moved across the landscape. As we descended, the dots morphed into bears splashing in the river. After a bumpy landing, we hiked along the beach toward the furry mammals. Summer is feeding time, and they were bulking up for winter. A mom and her cub grazed on sedge grass just across the stream from us. A mature male napped nearby, his distinctive hump visible above the tall grass. He didn’t seem to be bothered by us at all.

The hour passed quickly as the bears roamed in front of us with the snow-capped Aleutian Mountains in the background. Reluctantly, we climbed back into the plane. The pilot had a surprise: he took the longer, scenic route back to Homer, flying over icy blue glaciers, volcanos, snow fields, and turquoise lakes. I pressed my face (and my camera) against the window to capture the jagged mountains and fertile valleys. I’m not sure which was the most impressive part of the day: the majestic bears or the view of their remote, wild habitat.

Pro tip: Nature buffs who want to spend more with the bears can book a six-day immersive experience at Nat Hab’s Alaska Bear Camp, complete with heated tents and gourmet meals.

Together with Inside Hotels

Hotels We Love: Inn by the Sea

Any experienced traveler will tell you, staying directly on the beach is an experience like no other. At Inn by the Sea, a slice of eco-luxury nestled on the sandy shores of Crescent Beach in Cape Elizabeth, Maine, you’re right there, waking up to the sound of crashing waves. With a few accommodation options ranging from romantic to family-oriented, you’ll always be comfortable, and the on-site Sea Glass restaurant serves New England classics made with fresh ingredients alongside panoramic water views. A full-service spa and private beach cabanas complete the stay—it’s great out here.

Hot Cold Take: Yellowstone Is Way More Rad in the Winter

When you picture a national park, the spewing geysers and steaming hot springs of Yellowstone National Park are likely some of the first images to come to mind. Yellowstone’s peculiar landscape makes it a popular destination not only for outdoor enthusiasts but also for the average globetrotter.

For this reason and others, Yellowstone is one of the most-visited national parks, welcoming millions of guests every year. I once visited the park twice in one year, during two opposite seasons: winter and summer. Here’s why I prefer Yellowstone in the winter.

This is the Best Outdoor Guide in the World

“Guiding, for me, wasn’t just a profession; it was a calling born out of the enchantment the mountains cast on my soul.” 

That’s how Phurba Sherpa talks about guiding—with eloquence and clear passion. He was recently voted the best guide in the world in the “walking and outdoors” category by Wanderlust World Guide Awards.

Phurba, 30, grew up in Lukla, Nepal—the gateway to Mount Everest. Watching people embark on their journeys to the Everest Base Camp, guided by experienced locals, ignited something within Phurba as a child.

Breaking into the trekking field is no easy feat, though, and it often requires influential connections. Fortunately for Phurba, he was able to make those connections.

He started as a porter with adventure-travel company Intrepid Travel in 2012, became an assistant guide in 2016, then earned a spot as a full-time guide in 2018. And this year, he won a prestigious World Guide Award.

His journey so far has mirrored an ascent—a steady climb toward realizing his dream of being an Everest sherpa. He says, “with every step, I carried the dreams and hopes of those traversing the trails beside me.”

Surely, if there was an award for being poetic and likable, Phurba would win that too. Still, we wondered, what does it take to be voted the best outdoor guide in the world? So, we asked him.

Phurba answered our questions about what separates a good guide from a great one, the pros and cons of extreme tourism in Nepal, and what his own exploration aspirations are. Here’s what he had to say.

Find Something for Every Outdoors Adventurer on Your Holiday List

Whether you’re shopping for the avid hiker, camping enthusiast, or adventure-lover on your list, finding the perfect gift feels like it’s getting tougher. From backpacks to tents to clothing essentials, the gear and apparel options are endless, and so are all the emails and ads. The Outdoors holiday gift guide is designed to navigate through the noise and help you discover new products and find the right item based on your budget.

Our team of writers and editors have broken down gift recommendations into a variety of price points: from gifts under $100 all the way up to higher ticket items above $500 (sometimes way above). From stocking stuffers to high-value items they’ll treasure for years, we’ll highlight some great gear upgrades, multi-functional pieces, and handy tools that will get used all season long. By gift type or price, we hope you’ll find the ideal present for the outdoor enthusiast on your list and inspire someone’s next big adventure.

GIFTS UNDER $100 | GIFTS BETWEEN $100-$250 | GIFTS BETWEEN $250-$500 | GIFTS OVER $500

⛺️ The Packing List

Featured Guide: The Best Hiking Water Bottles You Can Buy Right Now

Having trouble finding a good hiking water bottle? You need something sturdy and relatively lightweight, ideally without being too bulky. We’ve done our research and are committed to helping you find the best hiking water bottle on the market.

Weighing the pros and cons of the market’s current favorite water bottles, we’ll make sure you can pick the right one for you.

The Nalgene Wide Mouth Ultralite is our top pick for a hiking water bottle, as it is lightweight, inexpensive, and holds up to 32 ounces of water at a time.

There are other options, but we’ve done the groundwork for you, which should make choosing your favorite water bottle as easy as a cold drink on a hot day.

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